Im Pazifik, Tag 2

Eigentlich wollte ich ja die Ueberschrift ‘Pazifikueberquerung’, doch ist es ja gar keine. Ist ja nur die Haelfte – oder nicht mal.
Na auf jeden Fall sind wir eh’ gleich da – geht flott dahin. Haha. Nein – leider gar nicht. Also in der Nacht hatten wir aufregende EIN Beaufort. D.h. beinahe spiegelglattes Wasser und kein wirklich wahrnehmbarer Wind. Dennoch waren wir flott mit 1 – 1.8 Knoten unterwegs. Hauptsaechlich dank unsers Freundes Humboldt (und vor allem seinem Strom), der uns mit ueber einem Knoten Richtung Westen schiebt. Sehr nett ! Vormittags ging’s dann windmaessig steil bergauf, wir hatten satte ZWEI Windstaerken, was den Captain gleich mal veranlasste, das grosse, bunte Tuch anstelle von Genua und Gross zu setzen. Mittlerweile hat der Wind erneut aufgefrischt und wir fahren mittlerweile bei grandiosen 2-3 Beaufort eine Spitzengeschwindigkeit von 4.7 Knoten. Pfoah ! Da sind wir ja in weniger als sechs Wochen schon da !
Hahaha. Jaja, wir amuesieren uns praechtig. Das Segeln ist ein Traum ! Wir sind zwar bisher mangels Wind echt langsam, doch so muss sich ungefaehr Katamaran-Segeln anfuehlen. Nein, nicht wegen der Geschwindigkeit. Aber wir koennen Tassen einfach so am Tisch abstellen. Nix faellt runter. Wir segeln quasi aufrecht. Sowas gab’s noch nie. Wir sind Pazifik-Fans !!
Ja und unsere Obst-Situation ist auch gerade recht lustig, da natuerlich alles gleichzeitig reif wird. So gab’s zum Fruehstueck des Captains Lieblings-Leckerei: Nutellabrot mit Banane. Zum Mittagessen das vorgekochte Huehnchen und spaeter noch ein paar Bananen. Vorhin haben wir dann wegen der Nachmittagshitze 1.5l Bananenmilch gemacht. Was’ zum Abendessen gibt ? Noch nichts Konkretes geplant, aber vermutlich mit Banane. Heh. Ach ja. Apropos: Fisch hatten wir bisher leider noch keinen an der Angel. Aber zwei Toelpel machten ihrem Namen alle Ehre und haben sich im Sturzflug auf unseren Tintenfisch-Koeder gestuerzt was uns veranlasste, diesen kurzfristig einzuholen. Toelpel schmeckt nicht, glaub ich….
Sonst nix los hier. Keine Schiffe, keine Wolken, keine groessern Saeugetiere. Nur ein paar Galapagos-Sturmvoegel und besagte Toelpel, die sich aber mit zunehmender Distanz von den Inseln rarer machen.
Die Kinder sind gut drauf, Gui ist nicht seekrank und der Captain ist ausgeschalfen. Besser koennt’s am zweiten Tag einer langen Reise nicht sein.
Ah ! Vielen Dank fuer die Kommentare ! Wir freuen uns immer SEEEEEHR, wenn wir hier auf See ein wenig Kontakt zur Aussenwelt haben !

LATITUDE: 01-33.40S, LONGITUDE: 092-13.68W, COURSE: 247T, SPEED: 3.9, WIND: SSE2-3, DISTANCE: 2823nm

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Pazifik crossing – day 1

Finally we got away from the Galpagos !! As always, we announced to leave but didn’t manage and it took one more day to get going. The reason was that we had a nice little farewell-party with the crew of the SY Red Sky Night and the captain of the Rancho Relaxo had a nice little hangover the next day.
We actually expected the coast guard to show up because we didn’t leave on saturday as we should. But they also had a party on friday, so I guess we shared the headache.
Today in the morning then we started final preparations, jumped into the water a last time and baked a nice big loaf of bread before we lifted the anchor at noon local time. We were just ten minutes away when again the engine went out. But luckily we had a nice breeze from SSE and the sails were already up. So we left the Isla Isabela under sail while all kinds of birds circled around our boat as to wish us good bye.
The wind was very light and quite often I looked around to check the distance from the coast, where a very long swell coming from SSW broke violently on the lava coast. But the wind stayed with us and increased as we gained distance from the island. Right now we look at the last volcano in the SW-corner of Isla Isabela and our distance from the coast is about 10nm. The wind is steady at a force 3 from SSE and we glide along with 4.5 to 5 knots. The sailing is wonderful as the ship is nearly without motion and there are little to no waves. We’ll continue to sail a bit too much to the south for the next one or two days after which we’ll continue somewhere between the three or five degree line.
Everybody is happy and feeling well. Our plotter tells us we’ll be in Fatu Hiva in 620 hours with 2881 miles to go. Hehehe.

LATITUDE: 01-13.43S, LONGITUDE: 091-17.38W, COURSE: 251T, SPEED: 4.1, WIND: SSE2-3, DISTANCE: 2879nm

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Waiting for the port captain

Yesterday at 4pm we stood in front of his door for the first time but he was ‘in a meeting’. At around 6pm we gave it another try but again: meeting. Today we got up extra early to maybe find him free for us. After a boat-taxiride and a 15 minute walk into the village we again found him in a meeting. Well. So we spend our time travelling back and forth in between the village and our boat. Or we roam the beach and watch the iguanas and crabs.

The island is quite different from San Cristobal. The streets are unpaved and the houses much nicer, the nature is even more meager.  The Iguanas are much smaller and the nice and bright beach is interrupted by black lava rocks. Those are the same rocks that we found in the entrance to the anchorage. It’s quite interesting to navigate in between those obstacles and I guess at night it’s quite dangerous. The anchoring is not that nice here as there is quite some swell entering and the weather is mostly misty – bad for our energy input.

Continuation of the above entry at 7:30pm: Finally in the early afternoon the port captain found some time for us and we could present our case. He told us to get going as fast as possible and repeated everything all the other people of the office already told us. Thereafter we found ourselfes in a small office where another officer took about two hours to type the protocol, make a copy of our passports, ask stupid questions while we studied a copy of the ecuatorian maritime law that lie on a table. In the end we were back at the Rancho Relaxo around 3pm and I could finally fix the engine. (Replace the fuel filter again.) So it’s working now but noone knows for how long. But for sure long enough to exit the harbour.

Tonight we’ll have the crew of the SY Red Sky Night from Australia aboard our ship and we’ll have a drink or two. They will also start towards the Marquesas in a few days and as they got a faster ship than ours, we’ll probably arrive around the same time.  Tomorrow after the breakfast we’ll be going….

Oh ! And I nearly forgot: Today we also saw Penguins !! Unfortunately we didn’t have a camera with us.

Last thing: During the voyage our satphone wll be turned on every day at 18:00 UTC for one hour.

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Short stop at the Isla Isabela

So today in the afternoon we landed at the Isla Isabela. When passing by the harbour, the wind died on us and we started the engine – which went out after five minutes. So we again set sails and tried to enter the port of Villamil – but it wasn’t enough wind. The Guarda Costas came to pull us into the anchorage and later came on board to ask about our problem and have a look at the engine.

So we’re now at Isla Isabela and we will later have to go to the Capitaneria to explain ourselves to the port captain. We’ll see, how long we’re allowed to stay. But usually it should be the 72 hours that are granted by maritime law. We’ll have to replace fuel filters (again) and maybe we have a chance to see the penguins or the land-iguanas….

Oh – and again we had problems updating our blog from underway. The posting I sent yesterday in the night, I had to post manually. Cheez. I hope we’ll not again run into problems with our website – we would be unable to post from underway….

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Unterwegs – aber wohin ?

Mit einem Tag Verzoegerung haben wir’s also doch geschafft uns von San Cristobal loszureissen. Und genau diese Insel verschwindet nun bei Sonnenuntergang um 0h Bordzeit achteraus langsam im Dunst. Wir segeln mit halben Wind und wunderbar ruhig Richtung Westen, nur ein kleiner Schwell aus Suedsuedost hebt un senkt das Schiff kaum merklich. So gleiten wir gemaechlich mit einer leichten Brise voran und freuen uns, da wir mit blankgeputztem Unterwasserschiff so ungleich schneller sind, als auf der Reise zu den Galapagos. Noch vor Anker liegend konnten wir den Unterschied merken: als unsere ‘Muschelzucht’ entfernt war kam ploetzlich Bewegung ins Schiff. Ploetzlich begann die Rancho Relaxo genau wie all die anderen Schiffe zu rollen und zu schwojen. Faszinierend ! Mit den Muscheln am Rumpf wirkte unser Zuhause wie einbetoniert. Na auf jeden Fall gefaellt es uns sehr, so flott und ruhig unterwegs zu sein und so koennen wir uns noch immer nicht so recht entscheiden, ob wir nun noch einen Stopp auf der Isla Isabela einlegen oder nicht. Doch hab ich schon so im Gefuehl, dass wir uns doch die Pinguine ansehen werden. Die Kinder sprechen ja auch schon die ganze Zeit davon. Und Viola war die beste, als sie meinte: Da muss Mami aber noch schnell ein so ein Dings fuer den Hals stricken und auch eine Muetze und Handschuhe brauchen wir. Finde ich super, das Viola glaubt, auf der naechsten Insel ist dann Eis und Schnee – klar: Sind ja Pinguine da. Dass die Galapagos Pinguine irgendwie an’s Warme gewoehnt sind, weiss sie erst jetzt. Ach und wir sind im uebrigen so aus der Anchorage ausgefahren, wie wir gekommen sind: Unter Segel und ohne Motor. Auch wenn er mittlerweile wieder laeuft, wollten wir das mal probieren und ein wenig Routine gewinnen. Lief wunderbar. Werden wir sicher oefter machen. Morgen um diese Zeit werden wir dann berichte, ob wir weiter zu den Marquesas segeln, oder noch ein, zwei Tage auf Isabela verbringen…

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Updated route

After one year, I updated our PLANNED route. Finally a couple of important changes are reflected. As we’re now planning to sail to New Zealand for the south-summer and instead of visiting India and east Africa we might now focus on Asia. (Because of the pirates that cover the entire Indian Ocean from India down to Madagascar !)  But don’t take our plan too seriously as we will change it again – promised !

For more details, click the image or ‘The route’ up in the menue.

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Thank you for visiting the capital of paradise !

That’s what we can read on the sign, when walking towards the dinghy dock. And this way we took a couple of times today. With a big crate filled with grapefruit, oranges and lemons. With bags of potatoes, carrots and onions. Small packs of fresh spices, apples, tomatoes, and some other stuff – as well as two whole bunches of bananas, about 30 kg.

Well, we’re moving our house again. Somehow sad because Galapagos was really fantastic. But we already gave away our passports to get the necessary stamps and tomorrow we’ll pull the iron out of the sand and set sails.

Towards the Marquesas (yes, that destination is now clear !), across the “Big Blue”. – 3000 miles without stop. And without the possibility of a stop. But we’ve done good shopping and I’ve got two new fishhooks. Should be good.

The day after tomorrow we’ll might do another posting with pictures from the Isla Isabela (if we find internet there). Otherwise there will be our daily posts via shortwave radio as soon as we start the crossing.

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Coconuts and pets

Somehow there seems to be a relation between those two. After our last dinner together with Tamora, Papillon and Mares, the owner of the restaurant gave us a big bag of coconuts. Since then we sometimes heard a faint scratching or crawling behind the walls and in some of our lockers. Could it be possible ? Did we finally manage to establish cockroaches on board ? No. The trail of small, black excrements we found the next morning made it clear: a rodent of medium size found a new home on the Rancho Relaxo !
The kids immediately liked the idea of a new pet, named it ‘Elvis’ and wanted to build a small Lego house for the rat. But the capitana threatened to move out: “Either Elvis moves, or I do !” So it was that the skipper and the two short ones went into the village to search for a trap. It wasn’t too easy to find it, but we finally came back home with the classic model with an extra strong spring. That should work !
Back on bord, the situation got more complicated: The capitana got a terrible stomach ache and despite us having different causes in mind, in the end it was the disgust of the rat that caused her stomach cramps. In the evening we put a small piece of cheese in the trap and everyone went to bed quite excited.
Big disapointment on the next morning: The trap went off but was empty ! – No trace of Elvis. Or actually that’s not true as he ate the cheese and then feasted on a bunch of bananas that the careless crew forgot on the saloon table.

Sensitive people and rat lovers: Don’t klick the last picture !!

The day passes with a lot of music. As planned, the skipper started to learn Guitar when entering the Pacific. The kids accompany his first musical steps with melodica and E-piano. All that while in the aft, the capitana arches because of her stomache cramps.
But this night we have a different plan: As Elvis obviously enjoys a very healthy diet, we’ll put a piece of banana in the trap and place that on the saloon table. To help the crew get sleepy we finally do a movie night – it’s been a long time. At 22hrs everybody is in the bunks and fast asleep.

At around 03h in the morning, the always watchful skipper awakenes and has to pee… – As I weasel through the dark saloon I noticed the trap has moved slightly ! And in the faint moonlight I thought I could see something small and round beside the trap. Maybe Elvis isn’t all that clever and we… I turn on the light and see the rat run to the far side of the saloon table. He again managed to get the food out of the trap and he only lost ONE whisker (!) when the trap snapped ! But now he’s behaving like most Galapagos animals and shows no fear of humans. He just sits at the table and stares at me while I – without turning away my eyes, I reach behind my back to get the machete we used the evening bevore to open coconuts. I lift it above my head – one stoke ! And I put a 1cm deep cut into our saloon table – and Elvis does his last twitch. I throw our former crew member over bord and hear the capitana sigh in her sleep. Next day her stomach ache is gone.

What I find funny about this somehow morbid story: The Galapagos are some of the strictest islands when it comes to quarantine rules. It’s pretty impossible to enter these islands with an animal aboard. Even to bring fruit or vegetables is not always easy. But it is exactly here that we and the SY Mares managed to get a rat on our ships. Hmmm. Maybe we should reverse those quarantine rules to protect the sailors ?

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Again the last ones.

We again managed to oversleep – the crossing of the Pacific, it seems. In the beginning there were six sailboats here at San Cristobal but now the Rancho Relaxo is the last one. A weird feeling. A big bunch of tour- and diving ships but only one sailboat. Well…

The last days were dominated by farewells. First the SY Papillon – a beautiful 57″ ketch from the states started towards the Marquesas. Next day the SY Tamora weighted anchor. Dieter and Silke made a short stopover at the Isla Isabela and now are underway to the Gambier Islands. The day before yesterday our swiss anchor – neighbor set sail. Esti, Mario and Laura also started with destination Gambiers but they might try to make a stop at the Easter islands, if the wind is favorable. Especially the last parting was very hard for our kids as they were good friends with Laura. Bruno was extremely sad when she finally got into the watertaxi and went home aboard her catamaran.

I think we’ll stay a few more days here at San Cristobal but slowly it get’s a little to cold. Funny. We’re as close to the equator as you can get but it’s cold. That’s the Humboldt current. The water temperature was 31 degrees in Panama and Costa Rica. When we reached Galapagos we had 26 degrees but that dropped to a chilling 22 degrees during the last week ! First it’s too hot, now too cold. It’s really not easy to get it right for the LosLocos. Hehehe.

Posted in Kids, LosLocos, Pics, Rancho Relaxo, Sailing | 4 Comments

The passage through the Panama Canal – timelapse

Better late than never. I finally found the time to put together this little movie of our canal passage. We had the GoPro mounted on the wind generator and it made about 1400 pictures during our passage. Now I’ve put them together as a little movie. Enjoy:

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Gui’s first surf

We spent Gui’s birthday at Puerto Chino, a small isolated beach at the east side of the island. Here in the bay, the waves kept rolling in constantly and with a height of about one to one and a half meters. Should be quite perfect to start surfing or what ? Well, the interval of the waves and the time before the wave breakes was quite short but nonethless Gui tried it. She managed to catch a few waves and *nearly* got up on the board before being crushed by the wave. Unfortunately I wasn’t there with the camera when that happened. But I made a few pics for you anyway.

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Camping at the beach of Puerto Chino

We’ve been planning to go camping for a long time. Usually it was me who’s against it, because our tent is actually way too big for us and I don’t like carrying around all that stuff for only one night out in the wild. But Gui wanted to go camping for her birthday, so I finally had to give in.

And it was a good decision ! The camping site was wild and lonesome – the beach of Puerto Chino is completely isolated and we had it all for ourselves. Only us, plenty of animals and the sea that smashed it’s waves onto the beach. The most beautiful music to fall asleep.

The kids had lots of fun with the white/grey sand and with the big waves that were fun to play with. We climbed the small hill nearby, searched the surroundings for animals and watched the pelicans feed their young ones.

On the way to the beach we climbed up the volcano and saw the lagoon in it’s crater and we visited the station where they care for the giant turtles. On the way back we stopped at a giant tree with a house in it’s twigs. – There is also another room down in between the roots. One has to climb down a ladder through a hole. The kids loved it ! – And we had a great weekend AND Gui could test her surf board. More pics on that in another blog post…

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Galapagos – animals of the first week

A few animal pics we collected over the past week: A blue footed Booby, we found near the dinghy-dock in town. A deceased marine iguana, photographed at the Loberia, a beach near town. A small yellow warbler finch, various small lizards and three frigate birds fishing in the lagoon of the volcano. Of course there are also the Giant Turtles, we visited on the way to our camping site on the last weekend. The brown Pelican we saw at various beaches but only on the Puerto Chino we found them breeding with every couple of pelicans caring for two young fluffy white pelican children. The red stone crabs are found pretty everywhere as are the sea turtles. And the birds that look like vultures are actually frigate birds, watching over our tent at the beach.

I didn’t put any pics of Iguanas and Sea lions as we already had enough of them.

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Gui’s pre-birthday

Yesterday we had a little pre-birthday party aboard the Rancho Relaxo. The official date is actually the 9th of July but as then most of our friends will have left, we moved the birthday a few days ahead.

So we made Pizza and had a few drinks and next day Gui was REALLY lucky and managed to organize her birthday present: A surfboard !!!

At first we thought it would be impossible since new boards are too expensive for us. But we found a used one for 90USD and of course immediately made the deal. Sunday we’ll go camping for one night to Puero Chino and then Gui will give it a first try ! Yay !!

Posted in LosLocos, Pics, Rancho Relaxo | 3 Comments

Funny anchoring without engine

Our fuel problems are not yet finished. Actually today we should have got Diesel and Gasoline… The Gasoline was dark-grey – looked as if someone used it to clean engine parts. And the Diesel ? Well, I put a few liters in an empty jerrycan and put a little fuel treatment on it. Only two hours later I could see the water, bacteria and dirt seperating from the fuel. So all the Diesel and Gasoline went back – we already got enough problems.

Thanks to the dirty Diesel it is that a few days ago we had to enter the anchorage of San Cristobal without engine. The main sail was just put away and we were about to turn portside into the harbour when the engine died. We quickly got the Genoa out and put up the main sail again, after which we came about and set a course upwind, passing the first reef and closing in on the second shoal. After passing that one, we steered hard on the wind to get to a good position in the anchorage. Passing in between the many charter boats. – Should be ok. But what’s that ? Why is that ship (at anchor !) moving forward ?!? No, now we can’t pass in front, whe have to go behind it. But will we have enough room to get to our anchor position ?

So we pass at the stern. And we hardly have enough room to pass the SY Mares. But it’s ok. We remove the Genoa, continue for a few meters, luff up and throw the anchor. It grabs ! We lower the sail and open a beer. Yay ! We made it to Galapagos – action included !

And tomorrow I’ll again have a look at our fuel filters. Probably they are again cloaked with bacteria-mud.  What can we do ? Maybe a few bottles of Grotamar82 will fall from the sky ? Otherwise, we’ll try to use the engine as little as possible and try not to depend on it. Maybe I can install a little 3-way-valve and put a small 10l tank above the engine. That should be enough for emergencies and is easier to clean – and keep clean. Let’s see, whether I can find the parts for that here on Galapagos.

Thanks, SY Mares for the pictures !

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First day at San Cristobal, Galapagos

Galapagos. Just the name of these mystic islands are connected to so many images and stories. Darwin, marine iguanas, sea lions, giant turtles… And all that (except for Darwin) we’ll see in the next days and weeks.

After our dramatic arrival in the anchorage (a blog post with pics of that will follow !) We soon were greeted by an agent and the authorities. Soon after we missed about 600USD but had clearance for staying 20 days at the island. As the whole archipelago is a national park, everything is quite restricted and one can not sail around with his own ship. On can’t even take the dingy to the beach ! But – well, there are boat taxis for 1USD per (grown up) person.

The first day we went to the beach, together with the crews of SY Tamora, SY Mares and another sailing vessel with two kids aboard. The beach was fantastic and we finally were snorkeling again – after more than two months without touching the ocean. Unfortunately on that day we had quite huge waves and thus the underwater sight was poor. No turtles for us. – Only a few sea lions in the water. And those were more interested in the fish…

But it was great anyway. Everywhere you look, you see beauty. The black, grey and red volcanic stones at the beach for example. Together with the bright green bushes it makes a fantastic background for any kind of picture. And the marine iguanas – well I could take hundreds of photos. Amazing creatures, scary looking but harmless and they are everywhere !

Just as the sea lions. They are everywhere. Everywhere in the town, on the benches, in the boats and dinghies, at the beach. Luckily our boat has no bathing platform and also a high freeboard, so the sea lions cannot enter. But all our friends already had them in the cockpit or on the foredeck. Hehehe. Today I took the sailing dinghy to town – hopefully no sealion sleeps inside, when I get back in a few minutes.

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Pics from the trip Costa Rica – Galapagos

Just wanted to upload a few pictures from our last trip. Not much to say as we uploaded all the missing blog posts now. Tomorrow, I’ll post first pics from Galapagos !

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Arrived in Galapagos

Today in the morning we arrived at San Cristobal, Galapagos. The engine died on us while we were navigating in between reefs at the entrance of the harbour but we managed to put anchor under sail. Everything ok.

As you can see, I also posted all the missing blog posts of the last week. Our f****** server again managed to screw with us. Really frustrating !!

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Towards Galapagos – day 12

Another day passes… we really couldn’t care less. Time looses it’s proportions when you’re out at sea for a while. We had lovely sailing today: The wind freshened up to a steady force 5 and we put a reef in both the main sail and the genoa. The day was sunny and right now we got a bright starry night with a big near-full moon.
Of course the 12th day of this journey was all about crossing the Aequator which is a really big thing – to be on the southern part of the planet. Now after sailing for more than one year, we’re getting closer to what seems to be most of the sailor’s dream: the southern Pacific Ocean.
Tomorrow somewhere at noon or so we should arrive at San Christobal in the Archipelago de Colon (Galapagos Islands). Got about 50 more miles to cover, that’ll take not much more than one night – given the wind stays as it is. We’re still sailing close hauled of course, been doing so all 12 days. And we get accustomed to it ! Something I always thought is impossible or that only slightly masochistic people would be able to do. But – hey – compared to the rolling motion in the trades, here we got a constant angle. It’s quite steady at 20-30 degrees. Makes moving around a little difficult but at least, the pot stays where you put it.

LATITUDE: 00-17.32S, LONGITUDE: 089-08.21W, COURSE: 223T, SPEED: 4.8, WIND: S5, DISTANCE TO DEST: 46nm

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In the South Pacific

Woohoooo !!! We just crossed ‘The Line’ ! At 18:31h UTC we crossed the Aequator at the longitude of 88 degrees and 44 minutes. The countdown was a lot of fun because we told the kids that on the south side of course everything is the other way around and you’re with the feet on the ceiling an the head is downwards. Although the kids did not really believe that nonsense but nonethless prepared themselfes, lying down at the floor with the feet up in the air – just in case.
Up until now everything is quite the same. The water still turns the same way when we flush the toilet and we still walk with our feet on the floor. And it seems, tomorrow we’ll be in Galapagos. Yay !

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