Just wanted to upload a few pics that Bruno (and Viola) made today. Nice, aren’t they ?
Obviously those two were taken by me:
Just wanted to upload a few pics that Bruno (and Viola) made today. Nice, aren’t they ?
Obviously those two were taken by me:
Bruno’s birthday actually is when the northern summer starts, on the 21st of June. But since right now we’re with his grandmother, we decided to celebrate a little earlier. Yesterday we started preparations and Bruno, Viola and me made muffins, and sandwiches for today in the morning. As soon as the kids fell asleep, Gui decorated the table and hid the presents – with hidden hints, where to find the next one.
Bruno woke up first and everybody jumped into his bed to give him a first happy birthday kiss. Viola led himinto the little living room and the celebrations began. And somehow, magically we found the perfect gifts: a big set of cooking utensils, a little digital camera and a SKATEBOARD ! Our little hero is just as happy as we are. Now we’re off into the jungle to test Bruno’s new camera.
Before Bas leaves us and we leave Panama, we decided to spend two days at the beach here in this nice little ‘island of flowers’. Taboga was really beutiful and now that we’re back in Panama City, we are all relaxed and got a little sunburn.
I’ll not write much as everybody is quite tired and we’ll have a farewell-dinner with Bas tonight. Tomorrow at this time, he’ll already be in Amsterdam and I guess after one week he’ll start missing the Caribbean. ;-) Too sad the time has passed that rapidly, we would have loved to have him on bord a little longer…
Uuuuh, and I forgot to mention something really important: VIOLA CAN SWIM !!! – She started swimming (dog-style) when we were in the Shelter Bay marina (in the pool). And now that we were in salt water again it of course worked way better. Oh, we are sooooo glad that now both our kids can swim – probably the most important thing for a family that’s living on a sailboat.
As so many others, we’re now sitting on our ship and wait until the time comes for us to pass through the Panama Canal. It seems that we’re already in the rain-season as it’s pouring down heavily every couple of hours. Not exactly helpful when the temperatures never go below 30 degrees. The climate inside is like in a turkish bath. Our date right now is set for the 20.5.2012. But this can still be moved around, so we’ll post the definite date one or two days before leaving – because: There are webcams in both the Gatun and the Miraflores locks and maybe someone will see us while we steer the Rancho Relaxo towards the Pacific.
And of course we again changed our plans for the next days. With the weather like it is all paint jobs are impossible and so we’ll have to do without antifouling until we reach a place that is a little dryer. While the small rust patches along the waterline we might be able to do when there are a few hours of sunshine and no water movement… Someone mentioned a possibility to haul out the ship in the Tuamotus but we don’t yet know where that is exactly. Maybe somewone who knows could drop us an email…
Yesterday the SY Mares arrived and Bruno and Viola were extremely contented to see Laura again. The three spent the whole evening chasing crabs on the jetties and swimming and diving in the marina pool until 23h in the night. Right now we’re doing school and afterwards we’ll visit Laura to probably go to the pool again. Hehehe.
Yesterday we welcomed Gui’s brother with girlfriend on the Rancho Relaxo and today is Viola’s 4th birthday. We spend an hour on the internet to enable our family to send their wishes and afterwards we’ll sail to the Cayos Holandes to spend the birthday at the wonderful beach !
Jetzt sind wir bereits fuenf Tage in den Cayos Coco Bandero und wollen noch immer nicht weg. Hehehe.
Anfangs war die Anchorage ja etwas voll und vor allem haben die Generatoren der groesseren Schiffe uns genervt. Nun aber gehoert der Platz zwischen den drei Inseln uns alleine und das diesige Wetter der letzten Tage wurde von einer leichten Passatwindbrise weggeblasen. Die Passatwoelkchen stauen sich im Gebirge an der Kueste, wo es im Dschungel taeglich regnet.
Dorthin sind Gestern auch SY Kira und SY Thor aufgebrochen, nach Nargana. Dies ist die einzige Insel, welche nachts beleuchtet ist. Somit die einzige mit Stromanschluss. Angeblich soll es dort ja sogar Internet geben, bislang haben wir von unseren Freunden aber noch keine Bestaetigung bekommen. Die Insel selbst ist im Vergleich nicht schoen und das Wasser wegen des nahen Rio Diablo natuerlich nicht so klar wie hier, sondern gruen und voll mit Leben aus dem Dschungel. Wir bleiben also erst mal hier, denn bei den Temperaturen, die nur Nachts mal kurz unter 30 Grad gehen, muessen wir viel Zeit im Wasser verbringen. Anderenfalls wird man bekloppt. Dazwischen machen wir Ausfluege mit Pinguin zu den Nachbarinseln – Gestern hatte ich die ‘zwei-Palmen-Insel’ mal begutachtet. Die hat einen Durchmesser von ca. 15 Metern und es stehen – zwei Palmen – drauf. Sonst ist da nix. Irre !!
Jeden Tag gibt’s mal ein Gespraech ueber die Schoenheit der Inseln, wie schwierig es ist, sich als Indianervolk behutsam an die westliche ‘Zivilisation’ anzunaehern und vor allem, dass dies wohl einer der schoensten Orte unserer gesamten Reise sein wird. Denn auch die Inseln im Pazifik werden dies nicht um viel toppen koennen und angesichts solcher Vergleiche fragt man sich dann auch schnell mal, warum man ueberhaupt weiter fahren sollte und wohin diese Reise denn fuehren soll.
Warum sind wir auf dieser Reise und was versuchen wir zu finden ? Diese Fragen gehen uns oft durch den Kopf. Und die Antworten fallen je nach Gemuetsverfassung stets anders aus. Eines ist auf jeden Fall sicher: Fuer eine junge Familie und vor allem fuer die Kinder ist eine derartige Reise eine unglaubliche Bereicherung. Alles andere ist sekundaer.
One of the main attractions of Kuna Yala is the snorkeling. And we go every day. Mostly just to watch all the beautiful, colorful creatures and sometimes with the harpoon to catch some fish or lobster for dinner.
Usually Bruno and Viola acompany us in the dinghy and are afraid of the dark things in the water that try to grab their feet from deep down. I remembered from my own childhood, that I loved swimming above sand but was afraid of everything dark, I suggested to come snorkeling with us.
At first both of them were completely against that idea but I told Bruno and Viola that they’ll see the most wonderul place down there, the colorful world of the coral and fish. And all the dark stuff, you see from above is actually shining in all colors and full of life. So we set out with Pinguin (Gui was already there, together with Tim, Claus, Ornella and Gabriel (from SY Amigo)). We put on the diving glasses and snorkel and slowly slided into the water, always with a hand for the kids. The first two minutes they had to get used to the breathing with the snorkel but both immediately lost their fear. We swam over corals in 2-4m of water, went along the slope where it drops down to 20m. Both were pointing with their fingers and when I lifted my head out of the water, I could hear them: ‘Aaaah !’, ‘Ooooh !’, ‘Look this, how cute…’ They both were completely absorbed and we only got out after about one hour when everybody was already a bit cold.
Back on the ship they sat down and began to paint what they’ve seen. And here it was, where Bruno told me that: ‘This was the most beautiful town, I’ve ever seen !!’ – The town of the fish.
Despite MANY good events in the recent days this has to be the headline. For a family living on a sailboat this is by far the most important thing and now it happened: Bruno learned to swim ! It’s difficult to tell who is more happy about that – the parents or the kid himself.
And for me it’s difficult to find a beginning. As always – many things happen at the same time. My family is back. And they brought along the grand parents with whom they spent a week in Miami. Now we’re enjoying a holiday in the midst of our holiday-like journey. Gui’s parents invited us to spend four days together in a wonderful hotel near Bayahibe.
The Rancho Relaxo is alone at anchor in front of the Marina de Guerra who promised to keep an eye on our floating home and our dinghy while we enjoy the all inclusive club and have Campari-Soda and Caipirinhas at the pool.
Today Gui started her PADI diving course and tomorrow we’ll go diving together somewhere out on the sea. I don’t know exactly where, but it’s gonna be fun and I’ll bring along the GoPro to make pics and videos ! That’s all for now. It’s been a long and eventful day and I’m the only one awake right now as all the others fell asleep right after sunset.
The captain found a nice place to hide: no internet and no network coverage. That’s a good beach to get older without anyone noticing.
Gui and the kids are up early on the 3.3.2012, decorating table and cake and drawing a nice birthday card. The skipper is 38 and gets a massage under palm trees for his back. Bruno tries the first piece of cake and – CRACK – what was that ?!? Bruno’s first milk tooth just came loose. Bruno is extremely happy as now he is ‘older’. Loosing the milk teeth was one thing he was waiting for with great excitement.
After breakfast we leave for the beach and have a wet landing thanks to a little swell that developed during the night. Viola’s life vest got a little too wet and – PFFFFFFF !!! – transforms from a little red thing in a big yellow one. Well, at least we know that it’s working. Heh.
As promised, I’m gonna post some pics of one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve seen so far. (The others being: Islas Cies, White Island and Barbuda). I guess, I’ll just skip the text as the photos will speak for themselves:
There are more photos on our Facebook-page. I hope my repaired Macbook will be back soon, then I’ll upload a ton of pictures on our gallery.
Another child’s dream has come true: Today Bruno with his five years drove his own car ! And this he did on streets with traffic and all that.
Well, we aren’t in the capital but still – Hhe drove very well and quite save. The other cars are cautious because the whole area around the marina is a big holiday-village with lots of golf cars driving around. So we got one of these electro-golfcars for ourselves and Bruno squeezed himself behind the stering wheel, replacing the captain and rode with us through the countryside and on the streets of ‘Casa de Campo’.
In the afternoon, Gui called us on the VHF. She left the marina at 04:30h in the morning to go to Santo Domingo where she received her visa for the U.S. (finally !) Thus Bruno drove us back to the marina, we picked up Gui and went to Alto de Chavón where we had a pizza and a beautiful view of the river. Of course he didn’t go straight but found a few ‘shortcuts’ through the field. Hehehe.
Oh .- and Altos de Chavón is actually not a real medieval village but was built in the 80ies. But still very nice.
Ah – and in the morning, the captain once more put on the diaper-shoes and cleaned the bilge. One of my favourite occupations.
Today in the morning as Gui was busy getting everything together for her Visa application, the kids and me were strolling through the marina and looking at a very beautiful ship that’s lying on the next jetty. A beutiful and big schooner with the most amazing stern I’ve seen so far. But how unfortunate – the ship has not been moved in more than four years ! And nobody takes care of it. So it’s rotting away…. Poor thing – they should give it to us, we could use a little extra space. Hehehe.
And then we were doing something we never did before: We CLEANED the Rancho Relaxo and her tenders ! While most of the boats around us are not sailed but only cleaned, we usually do ot the other way around. We sail a lot and let the spray and the rain do the cleaning. But since the water in this marina has too much chlorine to put it into our tanks, we used it (a LOT of it) to make the deck and cockpit white and shiny again. We also cleaned our two tenders and finally found the little hole where our deflatable has been loosing air the past two weeks.
After that much work we took Bruno’s little ‘Pinguin’ for a ride. We left the marina and went out to sea. But not very far as our destination was the river Chavon which we sailed up for about an hour. Unfortunately I couldn’t take any nice pics as I was busy handling the boat and the two kids at the same time. But it was a lot of fun and both kids enjoyed it very much.
Sorry for the delay… But after three months of anchoring we finally arrived in a marina. And as it is… there’s NO Internet ! Pah ! On pretty much every anchorage we had access to the net using our amazing WLAN antenna – but here, where we actually pay for services like these there isn’t any net available. So now I sit in a bar while Gui and the kids watch a movie in the cinema. Also not too bad.
So here are a few pics. Not too many as there wasn’t much happening during the trip. The kids did some artworks using batting and glue while Gui and me were handling the sails. And this we did quite often. It’s amazing how the Rancho Relaxo changes during a few minutes. Passat sails up, down, Blister to starboard or to port. And the last night we were sailing on the wind. Especially our batteries liked these last hours. The wind generaor was working hard and the energy supply of our ship was filled up during those hours.
Which brings me to the next mood point about that marina: Of course they have different power connectors in the Dominican Republic but why don’t they provide adaptors for us poor european sailors ? Well, the sun is shining every day and the solar panels should do for now.
A final breakfast with five kids and then we’ll have some fun: Today we’ve finally got a little wind and we can test our new sailing dinghy !!
As soon as the Nutella buns are swallowed, Bruno and Martín are up in the cockpit with their life vests on. And faster than me they climb down into Pinguin, Bruno’s new dinghy, to look for the best place to be seated. We have a light breeze and because the Simpsons Bay is nearly completely seperated from the sea we have no waves. Perfect test conditions.
Usually the Walker Bay 8 comes with an inflatable tube on the sides to give it more stability. But it’s absurdly high priced and we found an alternative by mounting small fenders all around. Works just as well and gives it a little self-made touch.
The children and the skipper were both thrilled ! The dinghy handles very well under sail and is quite fast even with very little wind. There’s enough room for me and three kids. We’ll see how we do with two grown ups – but it shouldn’t be a problem.
Another plus is that the new dinghy has the perfect size to be lifted into the Davits on the back of the Rancho Relaxo. Our inflatable was both too big and too heavy and thus we had to put it on the foredeck while sailing. Also new for us: the Pinguin is perfect for rowing ! I was going into town and out a couple of times during the last days and even human-powered, our little friend is quite fast. And my back is very thankful for the new exercise.
But the BEST ? We don’t have to burn fuel if we want to go to town anymore. Also it’s way more stylish to leave the sailboat with a sailing dinghy – isn’t it ?
A lot has been happening during the last two days. Well what could happen ? We’re on ‘holiday’ on an island – a new beach ? No.
Now that we met the SY Express Crusader again and the 5 kids have spent the last 72 hours (!!) contiuously together, we decided to (maybe) skip the BVIs, stay a little longer in St. Maarten and then sail for the Dominican Republic directly. We net stuff for fishing and the ship as well as do a few little repairs.
But first Bruno wanted to do ‘school’ and as he is more and more interested in small type, Gui got out a magic box containing colored, beautiful letters. With a nice set to touch and move around it’s double the fun and fascination as you turn d, p, q and b around. Transforming a i into a j, a d into a c or whatever. Of course Viola was joining in writing and painting. Both had a lot of fun with it and they immediately recognize and remember because they know that only with the small letters they can really read books. And that’s what both want.
We should do a dedicated post about the school on board sometime. It’s the thing I was most afraid about bevore leaving and it turned out to be completely the opposite of what I would have it imagined. Both kids learn on their way and do it every second of the day. They ask a lot of questions, are interested in metals, volcans, poisenous beasts and things that sting. It’s amazing that sometimes the kids know exactly what’s important for them at a moment. But as I said, that’s something for another post…
Afterwards we gave a name to Bruno’s ‘first command’: PINGUIN. So this is our new crew member. Very handy and fast to row and a funny and thrilling thing to sail. I think I can say that we’ll have a LOT of fun with Pinguin !
The first night, the kids spent on the Express Crusader, the next on the Rancho Relaxo. And as our friends are both switching their work/family role tomorrow, we’ll be seven for one more night. But the kids are a delight ! All are adorable, intelligent and calm and together the five are so in harmony that it’s a real treat. After the breakfast they started paperwork involving drawing, painting, writing and making books and booklets. I had to leave for errands but it continued with yoga, dancing and culiminated, throwing sand at each other on the beach. In the evening the five got a shower aboard, had dinner and went to bed after a movie (with a book and a flashlamp) each. What more could you want as a kid or for a kid ?
Of course Gui also went to bed immediately after the kids. Spending your time watching over five little ones between 3 and 7 years while on a boat or at the beach is something that uses all your senses and a lot of energy. Speaking of – my battery level is also critical. I’ll shut down now for 8 hours to reload.
Have fun everybody !
I already announced it, so here are the photos of the eleven mile beach. Maybe they make the cold weather outside a little more bearable for you.
The beach doesn’t need a description, I guess. So I’ll tell a little of what we did on Barbuda. This island is the complete opposite of Antigua where there’s the high society of sailing. Here on Barbuda theres NOTHING ! There is a hotel on the beach but it’s far off and there’s no village. But we had a todo: We needed to clear out and thus we had to get to Cordington which is seperated by a lagoon.
So what to do ? We all saw the amazing movie Fitzcarraldo and had the splendid idea to take the dinghy and carry it over the beach and into the lagoon on the other side. This was quickly done and despite being a little exhausting it was fun. We should do that more often. Hehehe.
We drove the dinghy about 20 minutes towards Cordington. This village consists of maybe 200 houses and the offices of immigration, customs and the port office were spreaded across the whole ‘town’. So I ran through Cordington in midday’s heat and filled all needed forms. Afterwards we had a cold beer and soon after drove back to where we came from. Same game: 20 minutes ride, 10 minutes to carry the dinghy back to the beach. And then of course an exhaustive bath in the turquoise water.
And that was prettty much all we did on Barbuda. Spending time on the beach, searching for crabs and shells, swim… It would make a great place to have a beach party with friends. Unfortunately ours are all far away or sailing the south of the Caribbean…
Way to fast the days run past. The three days on St. Lucia were amazing and we would have loved to stay a little longer. Also because we so much wanted to see our friends from the SY Tamora and the SY Thor. But we’ve gotta deliver our friend Guenther to St. Maarten where we have to be on the 10.2. and there are plenty of nice islands in between that we also would like to visit. So we hope to meet our friends on the San Blas archipelago in Panama.
The last day in this – probably the most beautiful anchorage we’ve been so far – we spent walking to the near waterfall. What we didn’t know is that the water runs down quite hot and thus we had our first hot shower since…. Well I don’t know.
The hike wasn’t really one. It’s just up the street and then one has to take a little path through the forest. But it was great ! Afterwards we cleaned up the ship ate dinner and prepared for our next trip northwards. – More on that in the next post.
Yesterday we left Tyrell bay together with the SY Kira to anchor in lee of the Saline Island. We sailed for two hours through a maze of reefes and islands to reach a very well protected anchorage in between Saline and White island.
Two hours before sunset we went ashore and started to gather wood for our bonfire. We grilled nine lobsters, two fish and a few mussels and enjoyed a very last evening together with our friends. Later in the night it started raining. For an hour or so we thought we could stay but the wind increased and we put out the fire to leave for the ships.
The children went to bed and we had a beautiful night in the cockpit of the Rancho Relaxo. Drinking the last remaining rum of Barbados and having a lot of fun with our friends. The wind still increased and the whole night we had 6 Beaufort but very calm see. The bay is quite shallow and with 20m of anchorchain on 3m of water we were quite safe.
Next day we had a breakfast together and everyone was quite sad that we would have to go seperate ways. The SY Kira is heading south while we go up north. There is the slight chance that we could meet in the San Blas archipelago but the timing is difficult. So it might have been a farewell for a very long time.
That’s the difficult part – while sailing you meet many interesting people and sometimes we become friends. With Claus and Tim it was as if we would know each other for years despite having met them only three months before. Well. Maybe we will meet again… We sure hope so.
Yesterday we climbed over the hill beside Tyrell Bay to catch a few of the neighbouring islands to the west. Amazing view – and once down there we had the great idea that I’d walk back to get the dinghy and then we ride out to the small uninhabited island.
Bad ideas are usually the best. That’s what I thought about when I was gliding out of the bay to pass the rough landscape of Carriacou. Alone in a small dinghy with an 30 year old 4hp engine. Hehehe. The ride was long and there were plenty of rocks and submerged reefes but 40 minutes later I saw my family waving on the beach.
We put everything into the dinghy and rode another 15 minutes towards White Island. One island and four people a great feeling to have a whole island for oneselves. We strolled along the beach for a few hours, swam in crystal clear water and just before sunset drove back to Carriacou. A wonderful day !
As promised, I uploaded more pictures of that amazing birthday. Actually the birthday of the twins is still a few weeks ahead but as we will have to seperate soon, Volker and Stephi decided to have the party now and here in Grenada.
It was a wise decision as I cannot imagine a place more romantic and beautiful for that occasion. The sun was blasting and the kids were running, swimming, searching, climbing until all riddles and tasks were done. Just as the big treasure hunt was over and the sun was sinking, we started the grill and a bonfire. The kids had grilled chicken, while the big ones drank fresh cocos-nuts with a shot of rum and were waiting for the steaks to be ready. Late in the evening it was when the first dinghys drove back to the ship swhile there was something dramatic happening at the anchorage… But that’s stuff for another post.
More pictures can be found in the Gallery.